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Category } Trastevere

Today, Rome celebrates Vespasian's 2000th birthday by holding the an exhibition called "Divus Vespasianus: Il Bimillenario dei Flavi", which makes one wonder whether a figure such as Vespasian would help Italy get through the current socio-economic crisis.

Bust of Vespasian
Does Rome need a new Vespasian? (Photo © Pablo Moreno)

When talking about the Flavian Dynasty (Vespasian, Titus and Domitian) the focus is usually on the impact their policies had on Rome: the financial, social and development reforms aimed at improving the quality of life of the population. Similar initiatives that are desperately needed by Italy today.

The end of the Julio-Claudian dynasty – good news for Rome

To better understand and appreciate the success the Flavians enjoyed one has to look at the challenges that presented themselves following the turbulent years of the preceding Julio-Claudian dynasty.

Nero’s suicide in AD 68 marked the end of a reign of tyranny, extravagance and… fire (supposedly). Namely, the Great Fire of Rome of 64 AD. The year following his death was a period of politcal and economical instability, including a civil war. It was a remarkable year, in fact, as 4 emperors ruled in quick succession: Galba, Otho, Vitellius and finally Vespasian.

The Flavian Dysnasty (69–96 AD) was a turning point for Rome. The political system was improved and started to function effectively again. Finances where restored and major landmarks built.

The Flavians (starting from Vespasian)

Vespasian was born into a family of equestrians from a village near the modern city of Rieti. Not the typical background of an emperor. Julius Caesar, for example, was born into a Patrician family, the Gens Julia, that claimed to descend from the Venus and Mars.

His rise to power was due, in part, to his success as a military commander. In 66 AD, for example, he subjugated the Judaea province during the Jewish rebellion of 66 AD. He was also a person of integrity, charisma and experience having been elected a consul and subsequently governer of the Africa Province.

In 69 AD is succeeded to Vitellius and was declared emperor by the Senate.

Rome under the Flavian Dynasty

Vespasian arrived to Rome with a plan in mind to deal with the instability inherited from the previous years. He quickly gained support from politicians, the Senate, the military and the public by rewarding loyalty (and removing those against him).

Vespasian was ‘media savvy’ too and understood that controlling the perception people had of him was key to ensuring his power and influence continued. What current Italian politician shares the same trait?

However, the financial situation he inherited was dire as a lot of resources has been consumed by the civil war. But thanks to his fiscal policies and taxtation he was able to restore economic stability and order, characteristics that Romans valued a great deal.

Of all policies that Vespasian was responsibile for the most famous remains the vectigal urinae, a tax that was originally levied by Nero upon the collection of urine. This tax could be justified as urine (a source of ammonia) served as the raw material for a number of chemical processes. This did not stop him from gaining a reputation as somewhat stingy leader and have urinals named after him – you can still see modern versions of Vespasiani around Rome today.

Vespasian continued to invest time and money making Rome a more prosperous and habitable city, but it was his sons Titus and Domitian, who become emperors after him, who are credited with much of the architectural and urban development work that was completed: the Colosseum, the Arch of Titus, the Odeon of Domitian, the Stadium of Domitian (now Piazza Navona) and the Domus Flaviae e Augustana palaces on the Palatine hill.

Architectural achievements of Vespasian, Titus and Domitian

This list is by all means complete, but if you happen to be in Rome you should make an effort to see the following:

  • Temple of Peace (Templus Pacis) – Inaugurated un 75 AD by Vespasian to commemorate victory in Judea
  • Colosseum – A joint production: commissioned by Vespasian, inaugurated by Titus in 80 AD and completed by Dominitian
  • Arch of Titus – Built by Dominitian in 95 AD and dedicated to his brother, Titus
  • Flavian Palace and the Domus Augustana – Started by Vespasian and finished by Dominitian. The former was more an exercise to show off the Flavian dynasty’s power and influence and the latter is was their private residence.
  • Stadium of Domitian – Built by Domitian to for athletic contest later become Piazza Navona.

Does Rome need Vespasian today?

The situation in Italy today is quite bleak. There may not be civil wars in Italy but security is an issue just the same. Even before the global economic hit Italy the economy wasn’t performing particularly well – now thousands are losing jobs. The closest parrallel is, however, the disfunctioning political system. If you want to learn about the corruption and excesses of modern Italian politics you should read a book called La Casta (the caste), by Sergio Rizzo.

Italy needs a new Vespasian desperately. A leader with integrity, charisma who is not afraid to make tough decisions. The current ‘Emperor Berlusconi’ may share some of the qualities but lacks integrity.

Want to know more about the Flavian Dynasty?

Simpe. Visit the Divus Vespasianus: Il Bimillenario dei Flavi exhibition that runs until 10 January 2010, and give yourself enough time in Rome to visit the above mentioned landmarks.

Our thoughts on... } Culture, Arts & Music & Trastevere
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Four hundred years after Galileo the Vatican Observatory together with the Vatican Museums and the National Institute of Astrophysics (INAF) have organised an exhibition in occasion of the International Year of Astronomy.

Astrum 2009 poster
Astronomy and Instruments - The historical Italian heritage four hundred years after Galileo.

If you’re visiting the Vatican Museums over Christmas and New Year don’t miss AStrum 2009, and exhibition about astronomy and instruments used throughout the centuries to look deep into the sky.

Things have changed since the 17th Century when Galileo was tried by the Inquisition that found him “vehemently suspect of heresy”. But he was right. The world isn’t flat.

The exhibition will display an important selection of rare instruments for astronomic observation and its particularly interesting to see how these have evolved and become sophisticated over time.

All items are property of the National Institute of Astrophysics but there are also instruments belonging to the Vatican State.

Visitors will also be able to admire works of art that relate to the subject matter depicting, for example, celestial and earth globes.

Opening hours

The Entrance Ticket to the Vatican Museums enables the visit of the exhibition.

  • Opening hours of the Vatican Museums.
  • Open Monday to Sunday: the Ticket Office is open from 9 am to 4 pm.
  • The Museums close at 6 pm. Closed: Sunday; 8, 25, 26 December 2009; 1, 6 January 2010.
  • Free Entrance the last Sunday of every month from 9 am to 12.30 am. The Museum close at 2 pm.
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Experience Rome as it used to be a hundred years ago and learn about a great Roman poet: Trilussa.

Trilussa
Trilussa (right) discussing one of two things: poetry or politics.

As much it has become a popular tourist spot and a preferred residential area for those with deep pockets Trastevere still retains some of its original character. The Rome Museum in Trastevere (Museo di Roma in Trastevere) is an opportunity to learn about the old ways as well as one of the most famous Trasteverinos: Carlo Alberto Salustri (aka Trilussa).

Scenes of Rome: snapshots from the past

The collection of paintings are organised by themes such as costumes, festivals and night scenes but also aspects of the daily life of people living, working and socialising in Trastevere. Paintings date back to the late XVIIIth and XIXth centuries and include collections such as The Roman Scenes, The Crèche and The Talking Statues.

The Roman Scenes are particularly interesting as paintings represent aspects of popular life 100 years ago. You will recognise streets and buildings and get an idea of how much (or little) Trastevere has transformed since.

Meet Trilussa (in his room)

Trilussa is considered one of the most important Roman poets who rather than be part of any literary circles spent his time amongst the people of Rome and writing about them in the local dialect. He often used his satire to denounce and criticise those in power, but his observations of every day life are most appreciated. Like the flight of a bee:

Felicità

C’è un’ape che se posa
su un bottone de rosa:
lo succhia e se ne va…
Tutto sommato, la felicità
è una piccola cosa.

Happiness

There is a bee
that alights on a rosebud:
she sucks it, and flies away…
After all, happiness
is something simple.

Apart from examples of his work you can find typical objects Trilussa surrounded himself with. The idea is to try and re-create the atmosphere of Trilussa’s living and working environment to better understand his character. Multimedia information is also projected on the walls to explain things further.

There is also a Trilussa Archive of papers and photos but you need to book in advance if you wish to have access to them.

Get extra insight: academic tools

If you want to research things further the museum houses a library, a documentation centre and multimedia room.

Our suggestion: if you’re staying in Trastevere visit this Museum first thing

This way you’ll be able to appreciate the area with an understanding of Trastevere that goes beyond the stereotypes and guidebook entries.

Our thoughts on... } Culture, Arts & Music & Trastevere
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Featured walking tour

Tour of Hadrian's Villa and Villa d'Este

Duration } Half a day

Cost } From €12,00 per person (minimum groups of 20)

Get away from the hustle and bustle and visit two exceptional villas in the outskirts of Rome.


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